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Soufflé is one of those mythically difficult, potentially humiliating dishes. The cheese version is easiest, as it melts into the batter to allow an easy rise, as long as you refrain from opening the oven door to take a peek while it is cooking.
Preheat the over to 200C/400F/gas mark 6.
Grease and flour a 14cm diameter, 8cm high soufflé dish, then leave it in the fridge.
Melt the butter for the soufflé in a saucepan, add the flour and cook for a few minutes, stirring continuously with a whisk or a wooden spoon. When the roux is a golden colour, add the milk little by little, again stirring as you go. Bring to the boil and remove from the heat. Let the béchamel sauce cool for a few minutes before beating in the egg yolks, then the cheese. Season with the nutmeg, some pepper and some salt. Whisk the egg whites until they are moderately stuff, like whipped Italian ice cream. Add a little beaten egg white to the cheese mixture with a large metal spoon, to loosen it up. Then gently fold in the remaining egg white. Spoon the soufflé batter gently into the mould and cook for 20-25 minutes if you can see into your oven. Take a look at 23 minutes if not. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.
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