This recipe is taken from Karkera Canteen in Fort Mumbai. Krishna Pujari, my guide in Mumbai, took me to this ‘hole in the wall’ restaurant, saying it’s the best place to eat curry in the city.
For the masala paste, tip the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds into a spice grinder and grind to a powder (or use a pestle and mortar). Transfer to mini food processor with the garlic, chillies and turmeric and blend to a paste. Add the coconut and 50ml/2fl oz of water and blend again.
For the squid, heat the oil in a sturdy pan or karahi over a medium heat, add the mustard seeds and fry for 30 seconds until they begin to pop, then stir in the onion and fry for five minutes.
Add the garlic, ginger and green chilli and fry for a minute, then stir in the squid, the masala paste, chilli powder, tomato, salt and 75ml/2½fl oz of water and simmer for 2–3 minutes, or until the squid is cooked but still tender. Stir in the tamarind liquid and jaggery or sugar. Scatter over fresh coriander and serve.
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