Try this delicious recipe from Two Greedy Italians.
This recipe – which originated in Amatrice, near Rome – was taken to heart by Roman chefs and has now become familiar all over the world. It is simplicity itself to make, but you must use bucatino – a large spaghetti-type pasta with a hole in the middle, which makes it easy to cook. You should also use guanciale, cured pig cheek, although you could substitute the less tasty pancetta. Use pecorino cheese here rather than the posher (and dearer) Parmesan.
For the sauce, put the guanciale and onion in a pan with the oil and chilli, and fry gently for about 4–5 minutes. Add the white wine and tomatoes and cook for a further 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil, and cook the pasta until al dente. Strain the bucatini and mix with the sauce. Serve sprinkled generously with the freshly grated pecorino.
TWO GREEDY ITALIANS EAT ITALY by ANTONIO CARLUCCIO & GENNARO CONTALDO, published by Quadrille (£20, hardback)
Photos ©DAVID LOFTUS