Do you remember heading to the local Chinese takeaway for a bit of dodgy sweet 'n' sour pork and beef with black bean? Ever since the Gold Rush Chinese food has been a part of the Australian food scene, but for a long time Australians had a very limited view of what Chinese food was all about. China's a huge country, but most of the early Chinese settlers who arrived here were from the Southern region of Guangdong, home of Cantonese cuisine, so Cantonese-style dishes dominated here. Furthermore, the Chinese settlers adapted their food to suit Aussie palates, dumbing it down for an audience suited to plainer fare. These days it's all starting to change though, and we're starting to find out about the amazing variety and sophistication of true Chinese cuisine. Simon loves the fact that you can easily buy fresh Chinese produce, so in the kitchen he prepares a simple but delicious dish centred on a classic Chinese ingredient, fresh silken tofu. Maggie admits that the wok is unfamiliar territory, but as a tribute to great Chinese food she tries her hand at Sung Choi Bao. Someone who's done a lot to change the way we view Chinese food is Sydney chef Kylie Kwong, familiar to many from her books and TV shows. Kylie claims a remarkable heritage, being part of the largest Chinese family in Australian immigration history. She's inspired by memories of the amazing Cantonese dishes her mother would cook at home, but she's also able to draw on some very impressive restaurant training too, having worked for Neil Perry. Her cooking is a modern take on classic Cantonese cooking, focused on great fresh produce and eschewing the MSG and dodgy ingredients which so often characterised the Chinese restaurants of yesteryear. As a tribute to Kylie Maggie and Simon both adopt Kylie recipes: Simon fries some eggs in spectacular style while Maggie prepares a rustic Oxtail dish, perfect for the centre of a winter table.