This is classic Riesling food; it’s light, delicate, and has elements of sweet, sour, salty and spicy. More specifically, you should be looking for examples of Riesling that without being sickly sweet, pull up short of dry. Germany is home to the very best examples of this style, although both Australia and New Zealand are now producing more and more lighter, sweeter styles that are very similar in style to their German equivalents. Look out for Pewsey Vale, Crawford River, Neudorf and Felton Road.
Pop the red chillis into a mortar and pestle and bash to a paste, add the fish sauce and slowly add the lime juice until you have a nice sour and hot balance, season with sugar.
Dress the crab with half of the dressing from the mortar and pestle.
Use a large spoon to scoop out rough shapes from the watermelon.
Arrange the watermelon between the plates and scatter the dressed crab over the top. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the top and garnish with the coriander.
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