Put the butter, milk, sugar, and salt in a saucepan, along with 1/2 cup/125 ml water.
Bring to a boil.
Add the zests and orange flavouring.
Take the pan from the heat and add the flour all at once, beating with a wooden spoon until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball.
Put the pan back on the heat for half a minute, stirring to dry the paste somewhat.
Remove again and let cool, 1 to 2 minutes.
Add the eggs, the equivalent of one at a time, beating vigorously after each addition to make a smooth paste that falls easily from a spoon, but is not runny.
Heat the oil in a deep-fryer until sizzling, but not smoking – about 350ºF/175ºC.
Roll the balls of dough in the palm of your hand (or simply shape with spoons), no bigger than 3/4 inch/2 cm, and fry, turning once or twice, until they have puffed up to double their size, cooked through completely, and coloured evenly to a nice golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.
Remove with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.
Sprinkle very generously with icing sugar.
Serve warm, or store in an airtight container to eat later.
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