Preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F). Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil.
Rinse the clams under cold water and set aside.
Cook the pasta in the boiling water for less than the recommended time – get it out just as it’s beginning to soften.
Drain, rinse under cold water, then toss the pasta in about 2 tablespoons of the olive oil.
Tear off 2 large pieces of greaseproof paper.
The idea is to make 2 bags, which, between them, must be large enough to hold all the ingredients.
Place each piece of paper in a high-sided bowl (so that the greaseproof lines the sides of the bowl), then distribute the following ingredients between them: spaghetti, clams, garlic, anchovies, chilli, parsley, 3 remaining tablespoons of olive oil, chardonnay, tomatoes . . . and salt and pepper.
Bring the 4 corners of each piece of paper together and tie with string – you’ll end up with something that looks like a Christmas pudding.
Lay the packages, side by side, in a baking dish, and cook in the oven for 10–12 minutes.
I like to serve the spaghetti still in its bag so that when the guests untie the string they get the full force of what is an extraordinary aroma.
Serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, and a scatter of fennel tops.